I’ll never forget the look on my friend Sarah’s face. We were staring into a jeweler’s case, and she was completely torn. On one side was a classic, “can’t-go-wrong” round brilliant diamond, and on the other, a sharp, fiery princess cut engagement ring that seemed to pulse with modern energy. “The round is safe,” she whispered, “but the princess… it just feels more me. I’m just scared it won’t sparkle enough.”
That’s the big question, isn’t it? If you’re considering a princess cut engagement ring, you’re likely drawn to its clean lines and contemporary feel, but you want that jaw-dropping sparkle. Let me tell you right now: a well-chosen princess cut has an incredible, unique fire. But choosing the right one and, more importantly, the right setting involves a bit more insider knowledge than just picking a pretty square. I’ve spent years working with these stones, and I’m here to give you the honest, real-world advice you won’t find on a generic sales page.
What Exactly is a Princess Cut?
Before we dive deep, let’s get on the same page. The princess cut is a relatively modern diamond shape, developed in the 1980s. Think of it as the perfect marriage of two worlds: it has the sharp, geometric outline of a square or rectangle, but it’s faceted like a round brilliant.
This means you get:
– A brilliant facet pattern: Designed for maximum light return and sparkle.
– A square or rectangular shape: Offering a modern, architectural look.
– Four pointed corners: This is a defining feature and, as we’ll discuss, its biggest vulnerability.
Unlike step-cuts like the emerald or Asscher, which have long, linear facets that create a “hall of mirrors” effect, the princess cut is all about fire and scintillation. It’s a sparkle powerhouse.
My Pro’s Guide to the 4Cs for a Princess Cut
When I was helping Sarah, we didn’t just look at the GIA certificates. We talked about how the 4Cs behave specifically within a princess cut. This is where the real expertise comes in.
H3: Cut: The King of the 4Cs (and It’s Tricky)
Here’s the most important thing to know: unlike round brilliant diamonds, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) does not assign an overall “Cut” grade to princess cut diamonds. [Cite a credible external source here] This means you or your jeweler have to do a little more homework.
Believe it or not, this is where most people make mistakes. They focus on color or clarity and neglect the factors that actually make the diamond brilliant. Here’s what I told Sarah to look for:
- Depth Percentage: Aim for a depth between 68% and 75%. Too shallow, and light leaks out the bottom; too deep, and the center can look dark and lifeless.
- Table Percentage: A table between 67% and 72% is often a good sweet spot.
- Chevrons: These are the V-shaped facets on the diamond’s pavilion (the bottom part). A princess cut can have 2, 3, or 4 sets of chevrons.
- 2 Chevrons: Bolder, broader flashes of light.
- 4 Chevrons: More, smaller flashes, creating a “crushed ice” look.
- This is purely a matter of taste! I had Sarah look at videos of both to see which kind of sparkle she preferred. She fell in love with the more intricate sparkle of a 4-chevron stone.
H3: Color: Where to Save and Where to Splurge
Princess cuts are fantastic at hiding color from the face-up view. Because of the brilliant faceting, they chop up the light so much that it’s harder to perceive yellow tints compared to, say, an emerald cut of the same grade.
In my experience, you can comfortably go for a G or H color grade and have it look perfectly icy white, especially once it’s in a setting. If you’re setting it in yellow or rose gold, you can even drop to an I or J color and it will still look stunning. The metal’s warm tone masks any faint color in the diamond beautifully.
The one caveat: color can sometimes concentrate in the pointed corners. That’s why I generally advise against going below a J, even for yellow gold, if you’re sensitive to warmth.
H3: Clarity: Your Wallet’s Best Friend
This is where the princess cut really shines in terms of value. The same brilliant faceting that creates its fire also does a wonderful job of camouflaging small inclusions (internal flaws).
You do not need a VVS or Flawless princess cut for a beautiful ring. I’ve seen countless stunning VS2 and SI1 princess cuts that are completely “eye-clean,” meaning you can’t see any flaws with the naked eye. The key is to check the inclusion plot on the certificate. As long as there isn’t a large, dark crystal right under the main table, you’re likely in the clear.
H3: Carat: Looks Can Be Deceiving
One of the best things about a princess cut is that it tends to look larger per carat than many other shapes. Its corner-to-corner measurement is typically about 15% greater than the diameter of a round brilliant of the same carat weight.
So, if you’re comparing a 1-carat round to a 1-carat princess, the princess will often appear more substantial on the finger. This gives you amazing finger coverage and a big look for your budget.
The Achilles’ Heel: You MUST Protect Those Corners
Okay, let’s have a frank conversation. This is the part I drilled into Sarah’s head until she promised she understood. The princess cut’s greatest strength—its sharp, elegant corners—is also its greatest weakness.
Those four points are susceptible to chipping. Think about it: you wear this ring every single day. You’ll inevitably knock it on a countertop, a car door, or a dumbbell at the gym. A direct, hard hit to an exposed corner can cause a chip. It’s not a myth; I’ve seen it happen.
But here’s the good news: this is an almost entirely preventable problem. The solution is simple: the setting.
A bad setting choice for a princess cut isn’t just an aesthetic mistake; it’s a structural one. You absolutely must choose a setting that protects those corners.
My Top Setting Recommendations for a Princess Cut Ring
When Sarah finally chose her perfect 1.2-carat, H-color, VS2 diamond, the very next thing we did was find a setting that would keep it safe for a lifetime.
Here are the styles I always recommend:
- V-Prong Setting: This is the gold standard. Instead of a delicate round prong, a v-prong is a little metal chevron that wraps around and cradles the corner. It provides robust protection without detracting from the diamond’s shape.
- Bezel Setting: For a super modern, sleek look and maximum security, nothing beats a bezel. A thin metal rim surrounds the entire perimeter of the diamond. This is the ultimate in protection and is perfect for someone with a very active lifestyle.
- Four-Prong Basket Setting: A traditional four-prong setting can work, but I strongly advise making sure the prongs are placed directly on the corners, not on the sides (which would leave the corners exposed). A “basket” setting, where a low-profile metal rim connects the prongs underneath, adds extra stability.
My personal advice? Don’t ever put a princess cut in a two-prong tension setting. It might look cool and “floating,” but it leaves those corners dangerously exposed. It’s a risk I would never take with such a significant purchase. Sarah ultimately chose a delicate white gold band with four strong v-prongs, and her ring is as perfect today as the day she got it.
The Final Verdict: Is a Princess Cut for You?
So, after all this, should you choose a princess cut engagement ring? Let’s break it down one last time.
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Pros:
- Incredible sparkle and fire, a true brilliant cut.
- Modern, clean, and geometric aesthetic.
- Excellent value—it hides color well and is forgiving on clarity.
- Looks larger on the finger than many other cuts of the same carat weight.
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Cons:
- The corners are vulnerable and must be protected by the setting.
- The GIA doesn’t provide a cut grade, so you have to evaluate the proportions yourself.
Conclusion: Trust Your Heart, But Use Your Head
Choosing an engagement ring is deeply personal. When I saw Sarah’s face light up looking at that princess cut, I knew it was the one for her. It spoke to her style and personality in a way the “safer” round brilliant just couldn’t.
At the end of the day, the princess cut is a spectacular choice for the modern bride who wants a ring with sharp character and dazzling brilliance. It offers incredible beauty and value. My final piece of advice is this: trust your gut and choose the shape that makes your heart sing. But use your head and listen to the wisdom of experience—protect those corners with a secure setting. Do that, and you’ll have a ring that is not only breathtaking on day one but also strong enough to shine for a lifetime.